Longines Caliber 280 – A Manual-Winding Precision Movement from the Late 1960s

The Longines Caliber 280 is a manual-winding mechanical movement introduced in the late 1960s, at a time when Longines was still producing high-quality in-house calibers before the quartz revolution. Designed for accuracy, reliability, and serviceability, the 280 series was built to power classic three-hand wristwatches with a clean, functional layout. It became the foundation for several related calibers, including versions with small seconds and date functions.

This caliber is a product of Longines’ technical refinement in an era that prioritized precision timekeeping in compact, elegant cases.

Technical Specifications

Movement Features

• Central Seconds Hand: Unlike its sibling calibers 282 (small seconds) or 284 (date), the 280 features sweeping central seconds, enhancing legibility and offering a more modern appearance for the time.

• Precise Construction: The Cal. 280 is known for its robust gear train and stable amplitude, allowing it to keep excellent time when properly regulated. It was often adjusted in multiple positions and sometimes marketed with chronometer-level precision.

• Hacking Seconds (in some variants): Some versions feature a hacking mechanism, stopping the seconds hand when the crown is pulled—useful for precise synchronization.

• Efficient Manual Winding: The crown wheel and ratchet mechanism were engineered for smooth, responsive winding with a crisp feel and durable click springs.

Movement Architecture

The layout of the 280 is symmetrical and easy to service, with key components arranged for logical access:

• Barrel bridge and train bridge are separate, allowing for modular disassembly.

• Regulator index permits fine adjustment of rate and beat.

• Incabloc shock protection on the balance wheel enhances durability.

• The movement uses a standard Swiss lever escapement and a Glucydur balance wheel for thermal and positional stability.

This architecture made the 280 well-suited for mid-size watches, especially in stainless steel cases with tight tolerances.

Watches Using Caliber 280

The Caliber 280 was used in several Longines models from the late 1960s through the early 1970s, particularly in:

• Manual-wind dress watches with thin profiles

• Classic three-hand watches without date complications

• Occasional military or field-style watches where simplicity and reliability were key

Dials were often minimal, with baton or stick markers, and cases typically ranged from 33 mm to 36 mm.

Servicing and Longevity

The 280 is regarded as a very serviceable movement, with widely understood mechanics and parts compatibility within the 28x series:

• Shared components between 280, 281, 282, 284, and others help with sourcing replacements.

• Cleaning and lubrication should follow standard mechanical service intervals—every 5 to 7 years for optimal performance.

• Balance staff, mainspring, and pivots are robust but may wear after decades of use, especially in unserviced watches.

Conclusion

The Longines Caliber 280 is a testament to the brand’s mechanical precision during its last era of full in-house movement production. With its manual-wind simplicity, central seconds display, and compact, elegant build, it powered many of the refined watches Longines was known for in the 1960s and 70s. Today, it remains a well-respected and collectible movement for enthusiasts who appreciate understated quality and vintage Swiss engineering.