Universal Genève Caliber 106 – Ref. 1628: Compact Elegance from a Formative Era

The Universal Genève Caliber 106, found in Reference 1628, is one of the brand’s early manual-wind movements, produced during the late 1930s and 1940s. This period marked a key transformation in watchmaking, as wristwatches gradually replaced pocket watches as the preferred timekeeping device—especially among men. Caliber 106 captures this shift with a compact, reliable, and beautifully balanced mechanical design.

Though less known than Universal’s later chronograph or micro-rotor calibers, the 106 is an essential part of the brand’s early legacy. It powered slim, refined watches that embodied the understated elegance of mid-century Swiss horology.

Purpose-Built Simplicity

The Caliber 106 was designed for time-only wristwatches, with a strong emphasis on mechanical durability and thinness. Like many of Universal Genève’s early calibers, the 106 prioritized ease of servicing, long-lasting performance, and wearability. Its design is based on traditional Swiss lever escapement architecture, with a well-balanced gear train and simple layout that makes it reliable and easy to regulate.

It’s the kind of movement that doesn’t rely on flashy features or complications to impress. Instead, it quietly reflects the Swiss ideal of form following function.

Technical Specifications

• Caliber: 106

• Type: Manual-wind

• Jewels: 15

• Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (vph)

• Power Reserve: Approximately 38–40 hours

• Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock

The movement includes a small seconds subdial, typically located at 6 o’clock, a common layout during this era. Its 15-jewel construction supports essential pivots and ensures smooth operation while keeping the movement compact and affordable.

While finishing is modest—usually including polished or brushed bridges and functional plating—the movement is known for its reliable build quality, which is why many examples remain operational even 70–80 years after manufacture.

Ref. 1628 – A Watch of its Time

The Reference 1628 was created to house the Caliber 106 in a modestly sized and elegant wristwatch case, typically measuring 30 to 33 mm in diameter. This was perfectly suited to the aesthetic norms of the 1930s and 1940s, especially for formal and professional attire.

Cases were produced in a range of materials, including:

• Stainless steel – valued for durability

• Gold-plated brass – common for mid-market models

• Solid gold (14k or 18k) – reserved for luxury versions

The dials were usually simple and highly legible, often featuring:

• Printed Arabic numerals or applied baton markers

• Railroad-style minute tracks

• Sub-seconds dial at 6 o’clock

• Leaf or pencil-style hands

Branding on the dial was minimal, with early examples simply marked “Universal” or “Universal Genève.” Some wartime-era models may lack branding entirely, depending on export region or contract.

Serviceability and Performance

Despite its age, the Caliber 106 remains very serviceable. The architecture is straightforward, and most trained watchmakers can disassemble, clean, and adjust the movement without issue. Parts are still obtainable through vintage channels, and the relatively low-beat rate (18,000 vph) means less wear on components over time.

Properly serviced, a Caliber 106 can still run within 30 seconds per day, a testament to Universal Genève’s quality even in its early years.

Collector Appeal

Watches powered by Caliber 106, especially in Reference 1628, are quiet gems in the vintage market. They are perfect for collectors who appreciate clean design, mechanical authenticity, and a direct connection to the early days of wristwatch culture.

While they don’t have the prestige of a Compax chronograph or the technical flair of a micro-rotor, these watches offer historic value, affordability, and timeless style. Original examples with untouched dials and period-correct hands are increasingly hard to find, and therefore growing in desirability.

Final Thoughts

The Universal Genève Caliber 106, as found in Ref. 1628, is a shining example of Swiss watchmaking at its most fundamental. With its durable, hand-wound construction and modest proportions, it serves as a reminder of an era when elegance was defined by restraint, and precision by simplicity. For vintage watch lovers and historians, it remains an enduring symbol of Universal Genève’s early mastery.