The Buren Caliber 382 is a classic manual-wind mechanical movement equipped with a calendar complication. Produced by the renowned Buren Watch Company, this caliber reflects the innovation of mid-20th century Swiss watchmaking, where compact mechanical engineering and functional complexity met in perfect harmony.
Developed as part of Buren’s pursuit of practical yet elegant timekeeping solutions, the 382 was used in various men’s and ladies’ watches that prioritized precision and additional utility in a small form factor. The inclusion of a full calendar mechanism—featuring day, date, month, and moon phase in some variations—made this caliber highly versatile for its time.
Feature | Details |
---|---|
Movement Type | Manual-wind (hand-wound) |
Calendar Functionality | Yes – day, date, month, moon phase (in full) |
Jewels | Varies – typically around 17–21 |
Escapement | Lever escapement with Incabloc shock system |
Balance | Beryllium or nickel options |
Beat Rate | ~18,000 vph (assumed based on its era) |
Diameter | ~10.5–11.5 ligne (estimated) |
Shock Protection | Yes – Incabloc |
Application | Calendar wristwatches with classic styling |
The Caliber 382 was engineered with a broad range of individual parts, each precisely numbered and documented for service and assembly. Among its most critical components:
Balance Assembly: Offered in both nickel and beryllium, with variants including pivoted staffs and roller-equipped balances, suited for Incabloc compatibility.
Calendar Mechanism: The calendar system includes:
Date wheel
Intermediate date gear
Day and month stars
Painted discs for months and weekdays
Moon phase wheel
Setting Components: Detailed components such as yokes, click springs, correctors for date/day/month, and jumper springs ensure seamless calendar transitions and corrections.
Jeweling: Jewels are used across the gear train, pallet fork, escape wheel, and balance pivots, many with ruby settings for improved shock resistance and durability.
Regulation: The movement includes regulators both for flat hairsprings and Incabloc-equipped balances, supporting a wide array of configurations.
The comprehensive parts catalog for Caliber 382 makes it a watchmaker-friendly movement. Most of its components are individually replaceable, and the exploded views in the document suggest:
Clear access to wheels and levers
Modular calendar parts (removable without disturbing the base gear train)
Compatibility with standard Incabloc balance components and balance staffs
The use of specially coded screws and plates for calendar components
For those restoring vintage calendar watches, this movement offers the benefit of part traceability and mechanical clarity. Despite its complexity, servicing is manageable for trained horologists.
Buren used the 382 primarily in calendar-equipped dress watches. These models were elegant, often cased in gold or gold-plated metal, and targeted professionals and collectors seeking both visual appeal and practical features. The inclusion of a moon phase function in some variants added to the luxury appeal of these watches.
Additionally, Buren’s relationships with brands like Hamilton (after its acquisition) meant some 382-derived movements may appear under different dial names or minor modifications.
The Buren Caliber 382 represents a brilliant example of mid-century Swiss mechanical ingenuity. Its combination of a detailed calendar complication with a compact, repairable mechanical layout made it a favorite among horologists and collectors alike. Today, watches containing this caliber are prized for their craftsmanship, understated complexity, and the technical charm that only a hand-wound calendar movement can offer.
Whether you're restoring one of these vintage timepieces or studying classic Swiss horology, the Caliber 382 stands as a testament to Buren’s dedication to innovation and detail.
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