The FHF 60N is a manual-winding mechanical movement produced by Fabrique d’Horlogerie de Fontainemelon (FHF), a distinguished Swiss manufacturer of watch ébauches. It is part of the FHF 60 series, designed primarily for small, elegant wristwatches, such as ladies’ watches and slim dress models, particularly during the mid-20th century.

The “N” suffix typically stands for Nouvelle (French for “new”) or indicates a refined or updated version of the original FHF 60 caliber, featuring improvements in mechanical design, shock protection, or casing compatibility.

Technical Specifications

• Type: Manual winding

• Size: 6¾ x 8 ligne (approx. 15.3 mm x 18.1 mm)

• Height: Approximately 3.0 mm

• Jewels: 17

• Frequency: 21,600 vibrations per hour (vph)

• Power Reserve: Around 42 hours

• Functions: Hours and minutes (two-hand configuration)

Design Features

The FHF 60N movement was engineered for reliability and slimness, with features including:

• Compact two-hand design without a seconds hand to reduce movement height

• Enhanced shock protection system (often Incabloc)

• Improved bridge and gear train layout for durability and ease of servicing

• Optimized for rectangular, oval, or tonneau cases

This variant often offered better performance and fit compared to earlier FHF 60 versions, making it suitable for more refined watch designs.

Applications in Watchmaking

The FHF 60N was commonly used in:

• Ladies’ Swiss wristwatches from the 1950s through the 1970s

• Slim, elegant dress watches with minimalist dial layouts

• Private-label and export market watches, especially for Europe and North America

• Cases made from gold, gold-plated metal, or stainless steel

Watchmaker’s Perspective

Watchmakers value the FHF 60N for:

• Durability and reliability even after decades of use

• Ease of maintenance and repair due to straightforward construction

• Compatibility with parts from other FHF 60-series movements

• Its balance of precision and slim profile

It remains a popular movement for vintage restorations, particularly in delicate ladies’ watches.

Conclusion

The FHF 60N embodies the refinement and dependability of mid-century Swiss mechanical watchmaking in a compact size. It offered a perfect combination of slimness, reliability, and ease of service for elegant timepieces. Today, it continues to be a respected caliber among collectors and horologists dedicated to preserving classic Swiss wristwatches.