Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 480: Manual-Wind Movement with Calendar Function

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 480 is a vintage manual-winding mechanical movement developed in the late 1950s to early 1960s. As an evolution of JLC’s classic center-seconds architecture, this caliber added a date complication, reflecting the growing demand for practical, everyday functions in elegant wristwatches. Compact and reliable, the 480 was designed for slim dress watches without sacrificing mechanical integrity.

Technical Specifications

• Type: Manual-winding

• Functions: Hours, minutes, central seconds, date (typically at 3 o’clock)

• Jewels: 17

• Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)

• Power Reserve: Approximately 40 hours

• Diameter: Around 23.3 mm

• Height: About 4.5 mm (due to calendar mechanism)

Its proportions allowed it to be cased in thin mid-century watches with practical utility and understated styling.

Movement Architecture and Key Features

The Caliber 480 is mechanically based on the Caliber 476, with the addition of a calendar module. It employs a central seconds hand for a clean dial layout and features a date disc visible through an aperture, usually at the 3 o’clock position.

Key components include:

• Date-driving wheel connected to the hour wheel

• Jumper spring and date disc under the dial

• Manual date adjustment by cycling the hands (quick-set not present in most versions)

• Friction spring for smooth seconds hand operation

The movement is manually wound through the crown and features a precise, clean motion typical of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s mid-century craftsmanship.

Aesthetic and Finishing

As with other movements from this era, the Caliber 480 strikes a balance between functional and decorative finishing:

• Bridges and plates show perlage or light brushing

• Polished screw heads and jewel settings enhance the visual appeal

• The calendar mechanism is discreetly integrated, adding no unnecessary bulk

The overall design is logical, serviceable, and elegant—built for longevity and understated beauty.

Use in Watch Models

The Caliber 480 powered many of Jaeger-LeCoultre’s time-and-date watches from the 1950s and 1960s, particularly:

• Gold or steel dress watches with center seconds and a date window

• LeCoultre-branded models for the U.S. market, often in 33–36 mm cases

• Watches marketed toward professionals and travelers who valued functionality

These watches were both aesthetically refined and mechanically practical—ideal for daily wear.

Servicing and Maintenance

This caliber remains serviceable today, though attention is needed during disassembly of the date mechanism. Watchmakers typically:

• Clean and lubricate the calendar jumper and driving gear

• Adjust the center seconds hand tension spring to avoid skipping or drag

• Inspect the mainspring and barrel teeth for age-related fatigue

Some parts are interchangeable with Caliber 476, although the date components are unique to the 480 and may require vintage parts sourcing.

Conclusion

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 480 is a fine representation of the brand’s mechanical evolution during the mid-20th century. It combines a practical date complication with the elegant lines of a central seconds manual movement, all while maintaining a thin, wearable profile. For collectors and enthusiasts of vintage Jaeger-LeCoultre, the 480 offers reliable performance, understated design, and timeless utility.