pp_175

The Patek Philippe caliber 175 is a manual-winding mechanical movement designed for compact wristwatches, especially during the post-war era when elegance and precision were both essential. Although lesser known than larger or more complicated Patek Philippe movements, the 175 is highly regarded among collectors for its refined construction, smooth operation, and reliability in smaller timepieces—typically ladies’ watches or slim men’s dress models.


Overview of the Caliber 175

The caliber 175 belongs to a family of small-diameter manual movements, measuring approximately 18.5 mm in diameter (roughly 8¼ lignes). It was developed during the 1950s–1960s, a golden age for Patek Philippe’s craftsmanship and design. The movement was created to power ultra-thin, time-only watches that prioritized simplicity and classic proportions.

Because of its dimensions, the 175 was mostly housed in elegant gold cases, including round, oval, and cushion shapes, often with minimalist dials and applied markers. These watches were often worn by discerning clients seeking understated refinement.


Technical Characteristics

Despite its small size, the caliber 175 upholds Patek Philippe’s standards for precision, decoration, and durability. Its technical features usually include:

  • Type: Manual winding

  • Diameter: ~18.5 mm (8¼ lignes)

  • Height: ~2.9–3.0 mm

  • Frequency: 18,000 vibrations per hour (2.5 Hz)

  • Jewels: 18, providing support to the gear train and minimizing friction

  • Power reserve: Around 40 hours

  • Display: Hours and minutes; some versions feature a small seconds subdial

  • Finishing: Geneva stripes, polished bevels, circular graining (perlage), and polished screw heads

  • Regulation: Fine adjustment with a Patek Philippe-style regulator index

The movement is designed with excellent reliability in mind, often adjusted in several positions to ensure accurate timekeeping across various orientations.


Use in Patek Philippe Watches

The 175 was commonly used in mid-century dress watches, particularly:

  • Ladies’ wristwatches in 18k gold or platinum, with or without diamonds

  • Slim men’s models with elegant minimalist dials

  • Jewelry-style watches with integrated bracelets or decorative bezels

Its versatility allowed it to be housed in both traditional and avant-garde designs, including watches with asymmetrical or sculpted cases typical of the 1960s.


Collectibility and Market Position

While it doesn’t have the fame of Patek Philippe’s grande complication calibers or flagship automatics, the 175 is sought after by collectors who appreciate mid-century design and mechanical purity. Watches with this caliber often sell at vintage auctions and are valued for their build quality, timeless aesthetics, and signature finishing.

It also represents a period when even Patek Philippe’s simplest watches were meticulously crafted, from the movement to the dial and case.


Servicing and Durability

Due to its vintage nature, servicing the caliber 175 requires skill and care. Its small parts and precise tolerances demand a watchmaker experienced in vintage Patek Philippe movements. Original replacement parts are limited, so maintaining the movement in its original condition is especially important for preserving its value.

When maintained properly, the 175 remains reliable and accurate, offering decades of further use.


Conclusion

The Patek Philippe caliber 175 may be small in size, but it stands tall in terms of mechanical quality and historical importance. Used in some of the brand’s most elegant and discreet watches from the 1950s and 1960s, it continues to be respected for its craftsmanship and longevity. For collectors and enthusiasts who value understated sophistication and the enduring legacy of Swiss watchmaking, the 175 remains a quiet but worthy treasure.

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