Zenith Calibers 1724 & 1725: Compact Dress Movements from Zenith’s Golden Years

The Zenith Calibers 1724 and 1725 were produced during the 1960s and 1970s, a period when Zenith was manufacturing some of the most refined and reliable dress watch movements in Switzerland. These two closely related manual-wind calibers were specifically developed for slim, time-only wristwatches—clean, elegant, and built for daily use.

While the El Primero gets the spotlight in Zenith’s mechanical heritage, the 17xx series movements, including the 1724 and 1725, reflect the brand’s ability to create compact, precise, and understated calibers that stood apart in the golden era of mechanical watches.

Designed for Discreet Elegance

As men’s watches in the 1960s became thinner and more minimalist, Zenith responded by designing small and reliable movements for dress watches. The Caliber 1724 and its sibling 1725 were used in watches that often featured gold cases, clean dials, and ultra-slim profiles, making them ideal for formal wear.

Both movements were part of Zenith’s push toward mechanical refinement—offering high-beat accuracy, long service life, and mechanical simplicity, all in a small package.

Technical Specifications

The key difference lies in the seconds hand configuration:

• Caliber 1724 features a small seconds subdial, typically located at 6 o’clock.

• Caliber 1725 offers a central seconds hand, delivering a more modern visual flow.

Both were engineered to be slim yet robust, fitting perfectly into the thin dress cases that Zenith produced during this period.

Movement Design and Quality

These calibers were manufactured entirely in-house by Zenith, continuing the brand’s long-standing tradition of movement independence. They featured:

• Rhodium or nickel-plated bridges

• Straight brushing or perlage decoration on the main plate

• Polished screws and gear teeth

• Swiss lever escapement with Incabloc shock protection

The architecture was conservative but very well executed, providing excellent long-term stability, smooth winding, and efficient servicing.

Watches Featuring Cal. 1724 & 1725

Watches powered by these movements were typically:

• 32–35 mm in diameter, matching the fashion of the era

• Made from stainless steel, gold-plated, or solid 18k gold

• Fitted with domed acrylic crystals

• Marked with "Zenith" or “Swiss Made” text

• Often sold on leather straps with signed pin buckles

These timepieces were marketed as refined gentleman’s watches, offering a clean design backed by Zenith’s technical reliability. The dials were typically minimalist, with thin hour markers, dauphine hands, and excellent symmetry—particularly in the small-seconds layout of the 1724.

Serviceability and Longevity

Both Caliber 1724 and 1725 are reliable and service-friendly. Their straightforward architecture allows most trained watchmakers to clean and regulate them with ease. Because they share components with other movements in the Zenith 17xx family, replacement parts are generally available through vintage specialists.

When properly maintained, these movements offer excellent timekeeping by vintage standards and remain suitable for regular wear.

Collector Appeal

These movements appeal to collectors seeking:

• Vintage Swiss-made elegance

• Slim dress watches from a top-tier manufacturer

• Affordable mechanical quality from a historic brand

• Movements that are easy to maintain and historically significant

Original watches using these calibers—especially those with signed crowns, unrefinished dials, and gold cases—are growing in popularity among enthusiasts who value quiet craftsmanship over hype.

Final Thoughts

The Zenith Calibers 1724 and 1725 may not headline auctions, but they remain underrated gems of vintage watchmaking. Compact, well-built, and classically styled, these calibers reflect a time when Swiss watchmakers were perfecting the art of understated mechanical precision. For anyone seeking a vintage timepiece that offers timeless charm with a dependable heartbeat, these movements are a worthy discovery.