Seiko 1428A - Technical Guide

Seiko 1428A – Technical Guide (High Quality)

The Seiko 1428A is a manual-winding mechanical movement produced in the 1960s, tailored specifically for ladies’ wristwatches that require a compact, reliable, and elegant mechanism. Known for its slim profile and simple two-hand layout (hour and minute), the 1428A exemplifies Seiko’s dedication to precision engineering and durability in small-sized mechanical calibers designed for delicate watch cases.


1. Technical Specifications

Feature Details
Caliber Number Seiko 1428A
Movement Type Mechanical – Manual winding
Functions Hour, Minute
Jewels 15
Beat Rate 18,000 vibrations/hour (5 beats per second)
Power Reserve Approximately 38–42 hours
Winding Method Manual only
Hacking Seconds No
Calendar None
Diameter Approximately 17 mm (~7¾ lignes)
Movement Height Approximately 3.3 mm
Shock Protection Basic or none depending on variant

2. Key Features

  • Two-hand display focusing on hour and minute hands

  • Compact and slim design ideal for elegant and delicate ladies’ watches

  • Reliable manual winding mechanism with smooth crown operation

  • 15-jewel construction reducing friction and wear

  • Absence of seconds hand and calendar complications simplifies mechanism and maintenance

  • Service-friendly design facilitates repair and upkeep


3. Operating Instructions

Manual Winding:

  • Wind the crown clockwise daily until resistance is felt; avoid overwinding

  • Full wind yields a power reserve of approximately 38–42 hours

Time Setting:

  • Pull the crown out to the setting position

  • Rotate crown to adjust the hour and minute hands

  • Push crown back in to resume normal operation


4. Movement Architecture

Dial Side:

  • Hour and minute wheels along with cannon pinion

  • Basic keyless works for time adjustment

Train Side:

  • Mainspring barrel with ratchet and click spring

  • Gear train consisting of center, third, and escape wheels

  • Pallet fork and balance wheel assembly with flat hairspring

  • Regulator lever for timing adjustment

  • Limited or no shock protection in some versions


5. Servicing Recommendations

Service Interval Every 4–6 years
Cleaning Full disassembly and ultrasonic cleaning
Lubrication Train wheel pivots, escapement, balance jewels
Regulation Adjust via regulator lever aiming for ±30 seconds/day

6. Common Issues & Troubleshooting

Issue Likely Cause Solution
Watch stops prematurely Dried or dirty mainspring Clean and lubricate; replace mainspring if needed
Timekeeping irregularities Magnetized or dirty balance pivots Demagnetize and clean pivots
Loose or slipping hands Worn cannon pinion Refit or replace cannon pinion
Low amplitude Dirty jewels or weak mainspring Service movement and replace parts if necessary

7. Typical Applications

The Seiko 1428A was predominantly used in:

  • Ladies’ wristwatches with small, slim cases (~17–22 mm diameter)

  • Elegant dress watches with minimalist dials

  • Polished steel or gold-plated watch cases

  • Timepieces without seconds or date complications


8. Historical Context

The 1428A reflects Seiko’s commitment in the 1960s to:

  • Developing precise, durable, and compact mechanical calibers for ladies’ watches

  • Balancing slim form factor with reliable mechanical performance

  • Establishing a foundation for future movement innovations


9. Conclusion

The Seiko 1428A is a well-engineered, elegant manual-winding movement prized for vintage ladies’ watches. Its two-hand simplicity, slim design, and sturdy mechanical construction make it a favorite among collectors and watchmakers. When properly maintained, the 1428A delivers graceful and dependable timekeeping, epitomizing Seiko’s mid-20th century watchmaking excellence.

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