Seiko 245 – Technical Guide

The Seiko 245 is a manual-wind mechanical movement, designed for use in ladies’ wristwatches during the late 1950s and early 1960s. As part of Seiko’s early family of compact hand-wound calibers, the 245 represents the brand’s commitment to mechanical precision in small formats. Its traditional architecture and durable construction made it a common choice for elegant women’s dress watches of that era.

This guide provides a detailed technical breakdown of the Seiko 245, including specifications, construction, servicing, and troubleshooting.

Technical Specifications

Key Features

• Two-hand layout: Time-only design (no seconds, no date)

• Robust gear train with jewel-supported pivots

• Designed for ladies' mechanical watches with small cases and refined styling

• Smooth crown action with fine winding feel

• Durable vintage construction, often cased in stainless steel or gold-filled designs

Movement Structure

Components:

• Mainspring barrel – Hand-wound via the crown, powers the gear train

• Center and third wheels – Transmit motion to the hands

• Pallet fork and escape wheel – Regulate power release to the balance

• Balance wheel with hairspring – Controls timing

• Bridges and plates – Rhodium- or nickel-plated brass, traditional layout

The Seiko 245 uses a simple bridge system, typical of vintage calibers from the mid-20th century.

Servicing Instructions

Regular servicing is essential for preserving accuracy and extending the life of the movement.

Recommended Interval:

• Every 4–5 years

Service Steps:

1. Disassemble movement carefully, removing hands, dial, and gear train

2. Clean components in a watch cleaning machine or ultrasonic cleaner

3. Inspect pivots and jewels for wear

4. Lubricate critical areas: escape wheel, pallet jewels, balance pivots, and mainspring barrel arbor

5. Reassemble and check for free wheel rotation

6. Regulate the movement using a timing machine (acceptable deviation: ±30 sec/day)

⚠️ Spare parts may be difficult to find. Donor movements or vintage parts sources may be necessary for restoration.

Common Issues & Troubleshooting

Applications

The Seiko 245 was typically housed in:

• Mid-century ladies' dress watches

• Minimalist dial designs, no complications

• Gold-plated or stainless steel cases

• Often found under the Seiko Marvel or Seikosha lines

These watches often have collectible appeal today due to their mechanical quality and classic styling.

Conclusion

The Seiko 245 is a charming vintage hand-wound movement that exemplifies Seiko’s early craftsmanship in small-format mechanical watches. With 17 jewels, a reliable beat rate, and a clean time-only design, it remains a sought-after caliber among collectors and vintage restoration professionals.

Properly serviced, the Seiko 245 can continue to keep time with quiet grace—offering a glimpse into Seiko’s mechanical heritage and Japan’s mid-century horological progress.